Shoe upper



J. F. JONAS SHOE UFPER Sept. 23, 1941.

Filed May 31, 1939 Patented Sept. 23, 1941 &257,075

UNITED STATES FATENT OFFICE -SHOE UPPER Jacob F..Jonas, Bellevne, Ky., assignor to The .Krippendorf-'Dittmann Company, Cincinnati,

Ohio, acorporation of Ohio 'Application' May '31, 1939, Seria] =No." 276,544

1. Claim.

This inventon 'relates to improvements in Shoes, -aridparticularly to the throat portion of 'a' pump high heel style of lady's shoe.

An object of`the invention is to provide 'the lining 'of a shoe With a distensi'ble throat to btain a more snugly ar-dhigher-fitting throat for moresecurely holding a pump 'style 'of shoe'to the foot and one which Will comfortably yield to ordinary maneuvering of the' foot while'walking.

Another cbject of the invention 'isto provide 'a' double lned shoe with a distensible insert 'or -goring for the throat portion of the inner lining, andwith the middle 'linin'g Cut away within 'the region of the insert to minimize the laminat-ions 'of 'the 'upper at 'the throat, and to avoid any obstructing bunching 'of the'material irritating to the foot and effecting 'discomfort to the'wearer.

Other 'features and advantages 'of' the invention Will 'be more fully 'set forth in'a 'description of theaccompanying drawing, in which:

Flgurel is a-perspective view 'of an assembled composite lining with an'elastized throat 'section Secured to the 'rear margin ofthe vamp linmg.

Figure -2 is`an interior 'View of`a lining assembly shown in ligure l.

o 'Figure 3 is a Section'on line 3-3, Figure 1.

Figure &is a perspective View similar to'Figure l, illustratinga margin at the inner end of the throat section turned or hemmed over upon the upper or outer side of the section.

Figure '5`is a section on line 5-5 of Figure 4.

Fgure 6 is a perspective View of the throat portion O a Vamp in the process of applying and turning over an edge covering binding.

Figure 7 is a section on line 1-1 of Figure 6.

Figure 8 is a central section through the vamp of an assembled upper ready for drawing over a last and the application of a sole.

Figure 9 is an enlargement of Figure 8.

The improvement is particularly adaptable and advantageous for a double-lined high-heel pump type of shoe to obtain a snug high-fitting yielding or elastic throat portion, non-irritating to the foot of the wearer. It, however, is not intended by the exemplification to So limit the invention as it is obvious that it may be incorporated in other styles or types of construction of shoe.

The drawing illustrates in Separate Views VariouS components of a lined shoe upper, and diferent Steps in the making thereof and assembly up to the completed upper ready for drawing over a last and the application of an outer sole,

and the illustrations ollow as nearly as possible an: orderlyproce'dure 'as carried out in the factory to aid 'in a `more ready understanding of the invention. i

Ref-erring to the drawing, 'l indicates a Vamp -linin'g section' referably#of adrill fabric, Cut to the required pattern with the throat edge 2 'cut definitely'low or-nward from that of the prevailing practice. 'The 'margin of each of the oppositerearwardly extending portions 3, 3, of the vamp lining section is overlappngly joined and securedby a double roW of 'Stitching 4 to the correspondingorwardmargin of the quarter' lining sections 5,` 5, usually of a leather material. The rear margins of the quarter lining sections, one for each of the opposite sides of the shoe,areoverlappinly joine'd 'and 'secured by stitching to i the inside `heel section 5, usually .of leather and of a. 'different grade than that of the quarter sections.

The forward Fextremities of the quarter liningsare joine'd' and bridged'by an elastized throat section overlappingly joined to the -throat margin of the Vamp lining and to the underside thereof and secure'd thereto by a continuation of 'the double line of stitching -4 which 'oins the Vamp lining to the quarter linings. 'The throat section 1 is also stitchedto the quarter linings respectively by -a line of stitches 8.

The elastic throat forming section 'l constitutes a, piece of iabric having One side rubber or gum coated as shown at 'l'a, the coating having been applied whil ethe 'f'abric was'stretched or held under tension-So that when 'the coating set the abric is contracted by the elastic coating. Aside from its mode of manufacture, which need not herein be further explained as it represents a commercial product readily available, it possesses as a characteristio that it is elastic and yields in all directions, and is more yielding transversely of the shoe than longitudinally thereof. Therefore, in its use in a vamp, it provides for considerable flexibility crosswise of the throat. It serves to permit extending the throat upwardly, thus coming up higher on the instep and snugly lying over the instep so that the shoe is more securely fitted to the foot and Without discomfort to the wearer.

The elastic Section 'I has its free or inner margin 9 folded upon itself or hemmed over for its length between the top edges of the quarter lining sections, and adhesively secured, the gum or rubber coating 'la of the material serving for that purpose, and, as shown in Figures 1 and 4, the coated gum side of the section is disposed tensible goring section 1 forms a crosswise connection' for the forward extremities of the quar-"` ter sections and an elastic throat extension for the vamp lining Section I The vamp l I is provided with a double or middle lining Which corresponds in pattern outline substantially therewith, excepting that it is cut short at the throat as shown 'at l2Figures 7, 8, and 9, to more than clear the hem of the elastic throat section 1. The top edge of the qarter sectionsand the coinciding edge of the lining therefor, as a laminated unit' from, the throat rearwardly and on the inside thereof, are reinforced by a binding tape l3. The binding tapeis adhesively 'secured to the top margin of the lining' and hasanedge coinciding with the edge' of the quarter sections. .This provides reinforcement for the edge of 'the upperof 'the shoe from the throat rearwardly and around, the v heel, ,The throat edge of the Vampis bound in u a usual 'manner Withthe conventional French binding |4 Which hasan adhesive coated margin of gum or rubber, rendered plastic by the application of heat, or a'pressure sensitive adhesive on an inner face. 'A

The binding I4 initiallyis applied in the usual manner by initially ,disposing the same upon the outer side of the Vamp with an edge in alignment With the edge of the throat thereof, and the parts secured by an edge line .ofstitching I5. The binding eXtendS around the throat edge of the vamp only, due to the middle lining being cut short at this portion. After the stitching, the 'binding is turned inwardly over the. raw edges ,of the severalparts and adhesively overlappingly secured to the innerbinding tape [3, and for the throat is secured directly upon theinner side of the Vamp. In Some instances,` after the French binding has been turned inward, the parts are further secured by a, line of stitching running parallel with the bound edge and marginally inward thereof. i

The lining composed of the vamp, quarter and heel sections is inserted within the upper, and,`

as the quarter and heel sections are of leather, their raw top edges adjoin the bound edge of the Vamp, and the parts are secured together by a line of stitching IB extending along the fold of the binding, giving a beaded effect to the binding. The stitching extends around the throat joining the vamp With the elastic throat sect on 7, and in a manner non-interfering to the elasticity of the throat.

'At the throat the upper constitutes a leather vamp, the French binding with its elastized margin, which gives it elasticity or distensibility longitudinally, and the elastized throat section 'l affords a minimum number of laminations which are expanded in drawing the upper over a last and elastically contract When removed from the last, leaving the throat extremely flexible for snugly fitting across the foot of the Wearer of the, shoe, and permits the throat of the shoe to be brought up sufiiciently high for holding the shoe against slip' upon the foot in walking.

' The distensible insert or. goring for the lining preferably is of an extremely fine thread woven V fabric, and in the manner appliedpresents no obstruction irritating to the foot of the wearer, and fprovides ample yield for the wearer to conveniently and-With ease remove or apply the shoeupon the foot.v

A high-heel pump style 'of shoe makes a very .attractive product, and as the improvement provides the necessary elasticity at the throat, the heel of the foot can be considerably elevated by high heels for :the shoewthout discomfort to the wearer. The throat conforms to the foot in a manner Which Will securely hold the shoeto the foot in walking without extraneous tie straps or the like. V A

Having described my invention, I claim:

In a shoe of the pump type, a vamp, a lining for .the yamp, said lining having a throat sec-A 

